What is a Munter hitch and when is it used?

• A. Friction belay/lowering hitch used with a doubled rope; typically used when a belay device is not available.
• B. One type of knot used to tie rope ends together.
• C. Type of carabiner used for rope work.
• D. Harness strap adjustment technique.

Answer: (A)

The Munter hitch is a friction-based belay and lowering method that uses a carabiner to create resistance on the rope, letting you control a climber when you don’t have a dedicated belay device available. By routing the rope around and through a locking carabiner in a specific way, the rope is effectively doubled over the carabiner, so the belayer can hold, stop, or lower a load with a steady braking action. This makes it a handy improvised option in rescue situations or when equipment is limited.

It’s a technique you’d reach for when a belay device isn’t on hand, rather than a standard or preferred method for everyday belaying. Practise with a partner in safe conditions to get the feel for how the rope slides and how much friction to apply, and always ensure you’re using a locking carabiner oriented correctly to avoid cross-loading.